Gulf Coast Cooking

Ramen isn't just for low-budget cooking

Mention ramen to most people, and they think of the multi-pack noodles, and the ubiquitous package of mysterious seasonings that many of us lived on in college or when going through hard times.

A case or two does make for a good start for hurricane preparation, and they are cheap.

A case of 20 packages can be had for as little as $8, and there are almost two dozen flavors from which to choose.

That, however, is not the ramen the Japanese are so crazy for, not even close.

Here's the downside; Japanese ramen shops that sell nothing but their version of ramen soup, use fresh wheat noodles, never dried.

Fresh ramen noodles are just not readily available in our part of the world.

Your choice is to make your own or go for a dried substitute.

If you visit a good Asian market there will be several kinds of dried noodles that go by the name ramen, just know that you will not be experiencing ramen like you might in Japan or in a famous noodle shop in the United States. The closest one to us is Nakaya Japanese Bistro in Tampa's Hyde Park.

Once you have your noodles, then it's time to make the stock, which is the heart of this dish. After than, you decide on the other ingredients.

Some classic ingredients include pork belly, pork shoulder, poached egg, chicken, pickled shiitakes, cucumber or cabbage. That is just the short list.

Below you will find recipes for the stock and homemade ramen noodles, as well as a Mississippi version of ramen.

BARBECUED PORK RAMEN

Here's a take on ramen with Mississippi roots. The Chinese barbecue can be purchased at Asian grocery stores, as can the duck eggs and bean sprouts.

1 package dried ramen-style noodles

Homemade ham stock (see below)

1/2 pound Chinese red barbecue pork

1 duck egg per serving

Jalapeño peppers, sliced

Chopped green onion

Bean sprouts

Cut the barbecue pork into bite sizes. Add the stock to a stock pot and bring to a simmer. Separately cook the noodles according to package directions, drain and reserve. Using the same water, if you like, simmer the duck egg until just done, but still a bit runny,

about 6 minutes, place in a cold water bath. After a few minutes carefully peel the egg. Plate the noodles, add barbecue, slices of jalapeno, green onion and bean sprouts. Carefully cut a duck egg in half and add to the soup. Serve at once.

TRADITIONAL RAMEN RECIPE

8 cups pork stock

1 egg per bowl

Dried ramen noodles

1/2 cup sliced bamboo shoots

1/2 cup whole corn

1/3 cup cooked spinach

Soy sauce to taste

1 cup bean sprouts

1-2 chopped green onions

Optional: sliced pork shoulder, dashi granules, miso paste

Boil the eggs until firm. Simmer the stock in a large pot. Cook the noodles according to package directions. Plate the noodles, add a cup or so of stock, add one egg cut in half, then add the rest of the garnishes. Taste and season with soy as needed. The optional dashi and miso are very traditional Japanese seasonings, but they may be difficult to find here. Use them sparingly if you can find them. This dish is fine as a vegetarian dish, but add the pork if you must.

HOMEMADE PORK STOCK

1 pound pork belly

6 cups of water

1/3 cup sliced fresh ginger

3 crushed cloves of garlic

1 small bunch green onions

3-4 tablespoons best quality soy sauce

2 tablespoons sake

1 pinch salt

1 teaspoon sesame oil

The pork needs to cure, so rub with salt and let it rest in a cool spot overnight. The next day wash the salt off the pork then add all of the ingredients into a large, heavy bottom stock pot and bring to a simmer. Cook at a slow simmer for 1- 1/2 hours, removing the scum as it forms. Strain and discard the solids, but make sure to keep the pork. Your stock is ready, but if you want to use the pork, warp it in plastic wrap, place a plate on top and weight it with a heavy can. Let sit overnight, before slicing the next day. Pressing the pork overnight will make it firm and easier to slice.

HOMEMADE RAMEN NOODLES

3/4 cups all purpose Flour (see below) 

1 egg 

3/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste) 

1 tablespoon water (depending on flour and humidity) 

Add flour to a large bowl, make a well in the center and add the egg, salt and water. Combine well. Knead until the dough is no longer sticky. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest 30 minutes in a warm place. Flour a cutting board and using a roller roll the dough out to about 1/3 of an inch. Take your time and do it right, there is no short cut. On another floured surface, fold the sheet of dough over twice and using a sharp knife cut into1/4 inch thick noodles. Toss the noodles in a little flour to separate. Boil in salted water for 4 minutes, remove and let drain.

Julian Brunt, who comes from a family with deep Southern roots, writes the Coast Cooking column that appears in Wednesday's Sun Herald and for a blog at sunherald.com.

He is a food writer and photographer with regular columns also in magazines.

This story was originally published January 7, 2015 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Ramen isn't just for low-budget cooking ."

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