Don't forget the black-eyed peas and greens
Black-eyed peas and greens have been traditional foods in the South for generations. They are easy to grow in a garden or field, are nutritious and can be quite delicious, but as the New Year approaches these plebeian foodstuffs take on special importance.
The black-eyed pea, a legume, came to us from West Africa and found its way to the Southern United States in the 1600s, but didn't become widely popular until the late 1700s. Fresh off the vine, they can be cooked quickly and and can be delicious when seasoned properly, especially if you add a smoked ham hock.
What makes the black-eyed pea even more important is that is can be easily dried and so became an important food source during the harsh winters when gardens were bare. Dried peas must be soaked in water, overnight being the most acceptable method, and then cooked much like the fresh pea but a bit longer.
Turnip greens, collards, mustard greens and other leafy green vegetables have been a part of man's diet since before the Roman times. They are an important part of Southern cuisine, because they can be grown almost year around, even into the cold winter months, and are easy to cook. An additional plus is that some kinds of greens can be cut off just a few inches from the ground, and they will re-grow.
Black-eyed peas and greens become more prominent as the year ends and people look for ways to insure good luck for the new year. The idea that black eyed peas might be lucky comes because some people think the peas look like coins, something we all want to fill our pockets with. Greens may have joined the lucky food list because they are as green as American paper bills.
Greens and black eyed peas are delicious if you take the time to cook them properly. The peas can be a delightful side, or made into a hearty stew. Greens can be made with nothing but water, but the more care you give to them, the better they will be to eat. So give both their due and enjoy the results.
BLACK EYED PEAS AND OKRA
This is a classic combination of black-eyed peas and okra that is popular all over the South. Some people like to simmer the okra with the peas, but that can make for an unpleasant texture, at least to some palates.
Cooking the okra separately and adding it later avoids that problem all together. This dish is also very good with spicy pepper sauce or a tomato chutney.
2 cups black eyed peas
1/2 cup sliced okra
1/2 cup chopped onion
2-3 cloves chopped garlic
2-3 slices smoky bacon
2 cups chicken stock
Black pepper, red pepper flakes and salt
Chop the bacon and sauté in a heavy bottom pot, when well-browned remove and set aside. Cook the okra in the oil until tender, remove and set aside. Add the onions and cook 5 minutes, add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Add the stock and peas, season aggressively and then simmer for 20 minutes. Add the cooked okra (the peas should be almost dry) and cook only long enough for everything to hold hands.
SAVORY GREENS
This is about as simple as a recipe can get, from start to finish, if you are organized, you can be done and sitting at the table eating in less than one hour, and much of that time you do not need to be standing over the stove.
The pork element can be any kind of fresh sausage you like or even ham. The Italian sausage listed below is at the top of the list.
1 bunch greens
1-2 fresh Italian sausages
Red pepper flakes
2-3 cups water or stock of your choice
Remove the tough stems from the greens and then give them a good wash. In a large heavy bottom pot, sauté the whole sausage in a little oil until well browned. Add the water or stock, season with red pepper flakes and simmer for 15 minutes, now break up the sausage and continue simmering for 10 minutes more. You should have a flavorful stock by now. Taste and re-season or continue cooking as needed. Add the greens, one hand full at a time and simmer for 20 minutes. Serve as a side, as an interesting tortilla filling, toss with pasta or just by itself. This is a hearty meal.
HOPPIN' JOHN
This is another easy recipe that comes to us from the Carolina Low Country, but there they will probably use field peas.
If you are using leftovers, you will be done in minutes. If you want to make this a heartier recipe add celery, bell pepper and lots of garlic when you cook the onions.
2 cups cooked black eyed peas or navy beans
1 cup steamed rice
2-3 strips smoked bacon or 1/2 cup chopped sausage
1 small chopped red onion
1/2 cup stock
Red pepper flakes
Use the black eyed pea recipe above, leaving in or taking out the okra, if you do not have left over black eyed peas. If you want to substitute fresh or smoked sausage for the bacon, that would be just fine. If you are also without left over rice, which is perhaps not such a good idea, just simmer 1 cup of rice in 2 cups of stock, lid on, until tender. If you are lucky enough to have leftovers, begin here: Cook the bacon until crispy in a large sauté pan. Remove to paper towels to drain, then roughly chop. Cook the onion in the bacon drippings for 5 minutes, add the cooked peas and the stock, red pepper flakes and simmer just for a few minutes to bring the flavors together. Add the rice and the bacon, taste and re-season as necessary, and serve at once.