Yellow squash, the overlooked summer delight

Yellow squash isn't exactly the most popular vegetable. When it comes into season people don't line up to get it.

Yellow squash are often misshapen and pale yellow, but there is a surprising number of delicious things you can do with fresh summer squash, which is still in season.

The flesh is flavorful, and if not overcooked, has an agreeable texture.

Yellow crookneck squash are related to the pumpkin. They came to us from the Native Americans, who were enjoying them more than 10,000 years ago in what is now Guatemala and Mexico.

In older Southern cookbooks, squash is mostly ignored. Perhaps it was considered "too country" to put in a city cookbook. When squash is encountered it is mostly sautéed with a little onion or stiffed with breadcrumbs and a bit of butter, but there was very little imagination put into the recipes.

Yellow squash is a gentle vegetable. Simply cooked with a bit of onion, garlic and diced jalapeno in a little olive oil, it makes a splendid side dish. It does well in casseroles, with pasta, bacon seems a natural pairing, and, of course, you can deep fry it into delicious fritters.

SIMPLE SUMMER SQUASH

4-6 squash, roughly chopped

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 chopped jalapeño

3-4 diced cloves of garlic

2-3 strips smoked bacon or broken up sausage

1-2 pinches red pepper flakes

Sauté the bacon or sausage in a good size sauté pan. When it is crispy remove it and drain on paper towels. If your diet allows it, add the onions and jalapeno to the pan drippings and cook 4 minutes or so, remembering to season as you go. Add the garlic and squash and cook over a medium flame until the squash is tender. Crumble the bacon/sausage and add it to the squash, give it a good stir and serve at once.

YELLOW SQUASH CASSEROLE

4-6 roughly chopped yellow squash

1 chopped onion

2-4 cloves chopped garlic

1/2 cup sour cream

1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 cup panko bread crumbs

Red pepper flakes, black pepper, salt

Butter as needed

Preheat oven to 350

degrees. Sauté the onion in a little oil for a few minutes, add the squash, season aggressively, and cook for 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Combine the cooked vegetables, sour cream, and cheese in a casserole dish, top with the panko and dot with butter. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Allow to rest for 5-10 minutes and serve warm.

SQUASH AND PASTA

This is about as simple a recipe as you could ask for. If you want to turn it into a main course add shrimp and bit of pork (sausage or ham will do nicely).

3-4 yellow squash

Linguine

2-3 cloves chopped garlic cloves

Butter and olive oil

Red pepper flakes

1- 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare the linguinie according to package directions. Drain it, add olive oil to the cooking pot, and when the pasta has cooled a little, add the pasta back and give it a good mix, then add 1 cup of Parmesan and mix well. Cut up the squash and sauté in a little oil and butter, season with the red pepper flakes, and cook just until tender. Please do not overcook it. Toss the pasta and squash, garnish with the remaining Parmesan and serve at once.

SHRIMP-STUFFED SQUASH

This recipe is pretty versatile so feel free to play with the ingredients. If you want to be healthy, replace the sausage with smoked turkey, if you want it spicy, add chopped hot peppers. Play with it and make it yours.

6-8 yellow squash

1 pound peeled shrimp

1/2 cup broken up smoked sausage

1 cup panko bread crumbs

1 chopped white onion

1/2 cup chopped bell pepper (red or green)

1/4 cup chopped celery

2-3 cloves chopped garlic

Butter and olive oil

Thyme and red pepper flakes

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Split the squash lengthwise and steam for 3-4 minutes or until just soft but not done. Cook the sausage in a little oil until it is done, remove and set aside. Season the shrimp and then cook quickly in the same pan, remove, allow to cool and then coarsely chop. Add the onions to the pan, season to your taste and cook for 5 minutes. Add the bell pepper and celery and cook 3 minutes more. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Remember to season as you go. In a large bowl combine the sausage, panko, shrimp and cooked vegetables and mix well. Remember to taste and re-season as necessary. With a spoon, remove the seeds from the squash and discard. Fill the squash with the stiffing and top with a pad of butter. Bake for about 20 minutes on a sheet pan, remove when done, allow to cool, but serve warm.

This story was originally published September 17, 2014 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Yellow squash, the overlooked summer delight."