Eggs are elegant, easy and cost-effective

No one puts forth as elegantly about the simple egg as M.F.K. Fisher does in her “How To Cook A Wolf,” a war-time collection of essays about food.

In the chapter titled “How Not to Boil an Egg” she praises its nutrition, flavor when fresh and not overcooked and even its digestibility. The book is a great read but in addition to the beauty of Fisher’s prose we are reminded of the diversity of good things to be made from the egg and the economy it offers.

The egg is a good source of protein, essential amino acids, B vitamins and a hand full of other things that help us thrive. Like most good things to eat it can be abused by excess, a large egg has about five grams of fat and cholesterol may be an issue for some people.

But consider what we can render from the simple egg; it can be boiled, scrambled, shirred, poached, fried, pickled, made into an omelet, a soufflé, a frittata, which is essential in the making of hollandaise sauce, meringues and a mousse.

“Larousse Gastronomique,” the encyclopedia of French cooking, offers more than 40 egg recipes.

One point that can’t be over emphasized is that the flavor and nutritional value of an egg is much diminished by overcooking. Soft boiling takes a mere 3 minutes, hard boiling about 10 minutes, poaching 3-5 minutes but scrambling, because it is best when done over low heat can take as long as 30 minutes, depending only on your patience. A slowly cooked scrambled egg should resemble a custard and should not be lumpy or curdled.

A final note should be made on the freshness of eggs. Store bought eggs are what most of us use, but the farm fresh ones you can buy at a farmers market are better. They are more flavorful and are a more intense yellow. Compare the two for yourself, and you will be made a convert.

SLOW-COOKED SCRAMBLED EGGS

This recipe is not for people who are in a hurry, but if you want to taste an egg like you have never tasted before -- give it a try.

8 eggs, beaten lightly

2 ounces best-quality butter

3-4 tablespoons heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a sauce pan (use a double boiler or bain marie if you like) over the lowest heat setting, add the eggs and gently stir. At first it seems nothing is happening, but after about 15-20 minutes the egg will start to thicken. When they are custard like stir in the cream and cook just long enough to thicken. Season carefully with salt and pepper just before serving. Smoked salmon, shrimp, cheese or mushrooms can be added to make something grand. Garnish with leftover greens or a fresh herb. Serve with buttered toast.

A SIMPLE CHEESE SOUFFLÉ

There is no denying that making a soufflé is a task, it is not for the faint of heart. But then again it does not lie solely in the realm of a professional chef. Take it step by step, and you will find success.

3 tablespoons butter

2-3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan

2 teaspoons flour

1/2 cup whole milk

1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese

1 pinch nutmeg

2 egg yolks

2 egg whites

Salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a soufflé dish or ramekin with1/3 of the butter; coat the inside of the dish with the grated Parmesan cheese. Melt the rest of the butter in a sauce pan, add the flour and whisk until smooth. Add the milk and bring it to a boil (this is a basic béchamel sauce). Add the Gruyere, remove from heat and stir until the cheese is completely melted. Season with the nutmeg. Whisk in the egg yolks carefully. In a separate bowl whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff and slowly incorporate into the béchamel and cheese mixture. Pour into the soufflé dish and bake until puffed and brown, about 35 minutes. If you are using smaller individual ramekins cooking time will be about half.

STUFFED EGGS

There are as many variations of Southern style stuffed (deviled to some) eggs as can be imagined and most are very good. In its simplest application eggs are boiled, the yolk removed and mixed with a bit of mayonnaise and then re-stuffed. To this basic recipe can be added seafood, chicken, turkey, bacon, capers, pickles, chilies, roasted garlic, hot sauce, curry, mustard and a long list of other ingredients. The following recipe is simple, piquant and very good.

6-8 boiled eggs

Mayonnaise

6 large peeled shrimp

2 tablespoons capers (salt packed are best)

2 strips smoked bacon

Salt and pepper to taste

Tony Chanceries seasoning

1 pinch smoked paprika

A few drips of hot sauce are optional

Boil the eggs, cool, cut in half and carefully remove the yolks, set aside. Fry the bacon until crisp, remove, chop and set aside. Season the shrimp with Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning and in the same pan in which the bacon was fried, cook the shrimp over very high heat for no more than 2 minutes, turning once, remove from the pan and roughly chop. Combine the yolks, bacon, shrimp and capers with just enough mayonnaise to make a stiff filling. Season with salt and pepper, taste and re-season as necessary. Carefully stuff the halved eggs and garnish with just a dusting of smoked paprika. Serve in individual egg cups or family style on a large platter.

Julian Glenn Brunt, who has been a Mississippi Gulf Coast resident for more than 20 years, has a deep and abiding interest in art, culture and the culinary heritage of the South. His column runs weekly in Taste. You can contact him at living@sunherald.com.

This story was originally published February 29, 2012 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Eggs are elegant, easy and cost-effective."