Santa has always had a monopoly on the good cookies. But it took Julia Usher a while to ponder the bigger issue: Why should the winter holidays get all the gingerbread?
And why should something as deliciously fun as a cookie exchange be relegated to December?
Her answer unfolds in mouth-watering fashion in the new book “Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to Share Throughout the Year” (Gibbs Smith, 160 pages, $19.99)
Whether it’s Valentine treats, back-to-school cookies or Halloween temptations, cookie exchanges are about more than shared calories, says Usher, a former California engineer turned bakery diva.
“It’s an opportunity to draw family and friends into the kitchen and swap memories and recipes,” she says by phone, halfway through a national book tour. “It’s one thing to take the cookies home. It’s even better when you can take the stories home. A lot of the cookie swap tradition is about carrying on what’s been important into the future — giving and sharing, handing down the legacy of recipes.”
Meringue Ghosts
Makes about 2 dozen
q 1 cup dried pitted dates, finely chopped
q 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
q 3 tablespoons orange juice
q 2 tablespoons candied orange peel, finely chopped
q 1 1/2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
q 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons pecans, finely chopped
q 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
q 3/8 teaspoon ground cloves
q Meringue
q 4 large egg whites
q 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
q 1 cup sifted superfine sugar
q 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
q Miniature chocolate chips
n Preheat oven to 225. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.
n Mix the dates, orange zest, juice, peel and liqueur in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring regularly, until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Cook another 3 minutes, stirring regularly to prevent scorching. Remove from heat and stir in the chopped pecans and spices. Cool.
n Form 3/4-inch balls and arrange them evenly around the perimeter of the baking sheets.
n Make the meringue by beating the egg whites and cream of tartar on low speed until frothy, then turn the mixer to medium and gradually add the sugar, a tablespoon at a time. Turn the mixer to high and beat until the whites are very stiff and glossy, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the cornstarch evenly over the surface and beat 30 seconds more.
n Fit a pastry bag with a large (3/4-inch) star-tip and fill with the meringue. With the tip touching the top, and press, so the meringue covers as much of the ball as possible. Slowly lift the pastry bag straight up, still applying pressure, to make a ghost. Then pull up quickly, without pressure, to create a peak.
n Place two mini chocolate chips on each cookie to form eyes. Bake until bone-dry to the touch, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the ambient humidity. Cool on wire rack.
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