Published: Thursday, Mar. 26, 2009

Updated: Thursday, Mar. 26, 2009

Stingray’s Grill: good food, good prices

LAKEWOOD RANCH

Ken and Trish Keim’s new seafood restaurant at Lake Osprey Village shopping center was jammed with diners on a recent Friday night. Not to mention the line snaking into the parking lot and a clutch of hungry people waiting at the door for their names to be called when a table became free.

Many restaurateurs, lonely from the recession, would love to have that problem.

But Ken Keim, co-owner of the former Shells Restaurant, now renamed Stingray’s Grill, didn’t seem all that surprised that his new restaurant in Lakewood Ranch took off like a bolt.

He knew he had a good product.

When the Shells chain went bankrupt last year, Keim’s restaurant was under construction. Due to legal complications, he had to rename it, so he held a contest, and picked “Stingray’s Grill” at the suggestion of a New Jersey couple.

The 160-seat Lakewood Ranch seafood restaurant opened Nov. 13, just as the economy was in the midst of a frightening free fall. The financial debacle did not deter Keim, a veteran of the business with 23 years experience.

Asked what attracts diners during a floundering economy, Keim was quick to answer: A value-priced menu.

“My wife and I, Trish, we made up our minds when Shells went bankrupt, they had taken the prices up so high, most people couldn’t afford to eat there,” he said.

He said he would rather host 1,000 guests a day and make 50 cents from each one than attract 100 guests a day and make $2 from each.

“You have a little higher food costs, but customer counts are up,” said Keim, who started out with the Steak & Ale chain.

Because the restaurant was so full and because I didn’t have much time, I chose to sit at the big curved bar in an east wing of the restaurant. It faced a row of banquettes accompanied by little tables.

It had been such a trying week, I had not taken a single moment to contemplate dinner. This is most unusual for me. As a devoted foodie, I ordinarily savor the thought of a good meal, sometimes for days, weeks or months in advance.

Then, when you finally get to eat it, it’s really special.

It took me awhile to refocus in the moment. I looked at the restaurant’s clean lines and muted, modern colors. Its carefree crowd lifted my spirits.

On the other side was an outdoor patio with six tables, where I could see people enjoying the sunset over big margaritas and martinis.

I knew what I wanted immediately when the waiter told me that seafood bisque was on the menu as the soup of the day.

It’s one of my all-time favorites.

I ordered a cup ($3.49) and settled back to relax. When it came, it was the color of a delicate salmon rose and it had a delectable, buttery aroma. The soup was nice and thick, heated just right.

As an entrée, the sandwiches were tempting: A 5-ounce grouper sandwich grilled, blackened or fried ($9.99); fish or chicken Baja tacos ($8.99), soft flour tortillas stuffed with fish or chicken, wrapped in lettuce, sprinkled with diced tomatoes, shredded cheese and chipotle sauce. All are accompanied by french fries and coleslaw.