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They say a well-turned phrase doesn't become a cliché unless it's true, and in that case, California chardonnay is America's biggest wine cliché. Doesn't matter if we tire of it. Doesn't matter if we rail against it and start ABC movements, vowing ``anything but chardonnay.''
It's our favorite wine, accounting for 28 percent of the 176 million cases of California wine we drink each year -- almost twice second-place cabernet sauvignon's 15 percent. Our consumption grew from 9 million cases in 1990 to 49.6 million in 2007.
Perhaps it's because, to employ a Shakespearean cliché, custom cannot stale her infinite variety. Grow chardonnay where it's cool, ferment it in stainless steel tanks and it turns out light, crisp and lean, great for shellfish and seafood. Grow it where it's warm, ferment and age it in oak barrels and give it fancy secondary fermentation and it can taste like ripe pineapples and butterscotch, able to handle even buttery lobster.
So here are a whole lot of chardonnays for your consideration:
HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
2007 Morgan ``Double L Vineyard'' Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands: orange and mango flavors; rich, smooth and unctuous; very crisp; $44.
2006 J Chardonnay, Russian River Valley: hint of oak, green pineapple and green apple aromas and flavors; full-bodied and rich; $40.
2007 Francis Ford Coppola ``Votre Santé'' Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast: hint of oak; crisp, full-bodied; aromas and flavors of pears, citrus and minerals; creamy; long finish; $21.
2007 Murphy Goode Chardonnay, Sonoma County: big and rich, with oak and sweet pineapple aromas and flavors; creamy; long finish; $16.
RECOMMENDED
2006 Tangley Oaks Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County: light and crisp, with apricot, lemon and spice flavors; $15.
2006 Robert Stemmler Estate Grown Chardonnay, Carneros: hint of oak; rich pineapple and cinnamon aromas and flavors; soft and sweet; $34.
2007 Healdsburg Ranches ``Unoaked'' Chardonnay, Sonoma County: lean and crisp, with lemon and lime aromas and flavors; $14.
2007 Far Niente Estate Bottled Chardonnay, Napa Valley: big, rich; sweet apricot and cinnamon flavors; full-bodied and smooth; $56.
2007 Luke Donald Collection Chardonnay, Carneros: floral aromas; full-bodied and sweet, with ripe peach and spice flavors; $30.
2007 Artesa Chardonnay, Carneros: hint of oak; aromas and flavors of green peaches and cream; $18.
2007 Bernardus Chardonnay, Monterey: oranges, lemons and mangoes; crisp and rich; long finish; $24.
2007 Carmel Road ``Clark Ranch'' Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco: aromas and flavors of golden apples; creamy and soft; $35.
2007 Bin 36 Chardonnay, Monterey: sweet, soft and rich with ripe pineapple aromas and flavors; $18.
2007 Beringer Founder's Estate Chardonnay, California: golden apple and vanilla aromas and flavors; soft and sweet; $11.
2008 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay, Sonoma: hint of oak; rich pineapple and butter aromas and flavors; $14.
2008 Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, California: rich and ripe, with aromas and flavors of peaches and apricots; $14.
2008 Woodbridge Chardonnay, California: soft and sweet, with aromas and flavors of apricots and cinnamon; $8.
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