Off the Vine: Don’t make fun of Merlots

There was a movie released several years ago that made fun of Merlot, in favor of the Pinot Noir varietal. In reality, what this film did was cause an increase in the price of Pinot Noir wines to the consumer, while many Merlots remained near the same price level.

Although some Merlots on the market are quite plain, there are many more that have tremendous flavors — at a really good value.

Each of the wines that were chosen for a recent tasting were blended using at least 85 percent Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition, small amounts of Malbec or Syrah were included, along with other varietals in the final blend.

The Merlot grape generally contains fruity characteristics and is somewhat soft and round, containing less tannins and body than the Cabernet grape. Because of that, many winemakers will blend some amount of Cabernet to add tannins and structure to the finished product.

The 2007 Blackstone Winemaker’s Select Merlot is just one example of a Merlot that is easily enjoyed at a young age. This wine retails for about $9 a bottle and is one of the best-selling Merlots in North America. It has the aroma of toasty oak, followed by the flavor of dark cherry as well as spicy hints of plum. A sharp Cheddar cheese will pair well with this Merlot.

Robert Mondavi introduced the Private Selection label in 1994 to highlight wines that were produced from grapes grown in the north and central coast regions of California. The 2008 Merlot is no exception — it contains a blend of grapes from both regions and retails for $11 a bottle. This wine starts with flavors of black cherry and has a nice, soft finish. I didn’t try this wine with food, but it should pair nicely with a pasta with a marinara sauce containing Italian sausage.

Clos Du Bois has been a favorite producer of mine for quite some time, so I had to include the 2007 North Coast from Sonoma County in this tasting. This wine has very smooth tannins, with flavors of cherry and a slight hint of toast. This wine paired nicely with an appetizer of grilled portabello mushrooms that were stuffed with Gouda cheese and garlic. This wine retails in the $12 range.

The 2006 Simi Merlot from Sonoma County contains a slight aroma of chocolate, highlighted by the flavors of cherry and other red berries. This wine sells for $17 a bottle and is a very nice product at that price level. Try pairing this wine with roasted chicken.

Although all the wines tasted were from California, there are terrific Merlots available from Washington and France. In both locations, Merlot is the mostly widely planted varietal. If you are looking for a red wine that is round and smooth feeling in the mouth and fruitier than a Cabernet Sauvignon, look no further than these Merlot wines. They are both soft in mouth and to the pocketbook.

Jim Rawe, a family attorney in Bradenton, is an avid collector of fine wines. His column appears weekly. He can be reached at jimrawe@gmail.com.